Africa Round 1

back in 1997 i caught the travel bug. i recently added a sidebar link to my Virtual Tourist page in case you are in the market for some travel tips on places in this blog (and more).

my sister Margie was in the Peace Corps in Niger, Africa and I decided to visit. it was a truly amazing experience that started me down this endless path. "an endless path?" you say. can that be fun? well for me it is certainly the jouney, not the end that matters. just now i recalled a quote to that effect that i couldn't quite remember so i googled the parts i could. i found another quote that tied today's topic so amazingly well with my musings yesterday about "home".....

"every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home"
Matsuo Basho

Wow. maybe i should write a book on "self-psychology using google"! i swear "home" makes so much sense to me now. anyhoo, back to Africa.

after my trip i wrote a letter to several other peace corp families who were planning trips to africa. it made it's way onto a PCV website. not sure long it will stay there so i decided to post a copy here (minus some less relevant info). it brought back some wonderful memories for me.
**********************************

October 24, 1997
My trip to Niger was an unequivocal success! No health problems, no airline problems, just lots of heat. Niamey is a big desert ghetto but the people are friendly and I didn't find the smell overwhelming at all. I always felt safe and with a PCV, getting around is easy - there are always plenty of taxis. Be prepared to be up close and personal with the people you share a taxi with. As a matter of fact, during your trip to Niger abandon all your preconceived notions of "personal space".

The next step out of Niamey is usually the Bush Taxi. Picture a shell of a VW van with 25 people crammed inside and screaming goats strapped to the top. If there are only 2 of you, buy the cabin for an little extra and you will have a view and a little more leg room. Sometimes someone has beaten you to it - you can try to buy them out of it if you really want it. Again, don't have expectations of convenience and you won't be bothered. Don't be in a rush to get anywhere and you'll stay sane. It's easy when you're in the hands of your PCV. You'll probably find them getting more anxious than you because they are worried about how you are handling it. Reassure them alot.

Margie's village is a 5 mile walk from Torodi (where the bush taxi dropped off). There was a hostel there and any time you can take a break at the hostel - it's a good thing. The three that I visited offered a "refuge" from the onslaught to your senses. We did the walk to Margie's village at sundown and a few days later - the walk back at sun up. When I left Texas it was still in the mid-90's, so I thought I would be semi-acclimated. Nothing can prepare you for the fact that it's HOT and there is no escaping it barring the shady spot under a tree. Don't plan on doing anything in the afternoon. This was a good time for Margie amd me to hang out and talk about whatever came up.

The villagers were so warm and friendly. They want to watch and comment on everything you do and you would never believe that you could be so entertaining! Just scratch your nose and you're a hit. Get used to being laughed at - laugh at yourself. I was not concerned with physical contact - they liked to shake my hand. It's just dirt and there is plenty of that without touching a soul. I even ate village food numerous times and that was the only time dirt bothered me (because it was in the food and quite gritty). I didn't know how often I could expect to bathe so the fact that I got a bucket bath every night was a luxury. I loved the bucket baths after dark because you bathed under the stars and heard the village sounds and remained relatively comfy in your clean body for the remainder of the evening. Practice squatting.

The hostel in Niamey was a good launching spot for our expeditions. We snagged a ride with a Peace Corp vehicle to Kirtachi. A real coup since it's 3 hours with 2 of that on a very bumpy dirt road. The highlight of my trip was the bird survey on the Niger River with Katie and Margie. We got onto the river early in the morning and skimming along the water was the only time the temperature was comfy. (I understand it's just about to cool down a little, so soon it shouldn't be as bad)

Almost the entire west side of the river all the way to Benin is a park named Park Double'Ve (that's W in Fr.) because of the W the river makes at that point. We saw Hippos, Vervet monkeys, Baboons, an unconfirmed Lion (I know it was), Bush buck and a Dueker (a very small hoofed animal). And I can't even say enough about the birds. I was a bird watcher before my trip so what a tremendous opportunity.

Boscia, the village Katie stays at when doing the survey, is nice. The most remarkable thing was the man who does prayer call. It will take your breath away! Absolutely beautiful. It's worth sticking around a couple of hours for if you're just passing through. I had my most pleasant village food experience here. Along the river people have more access to rice so I did not have to eat the traditional pot & sauce (something I didn't take a liking to..it's the equivalent of grits or cream of wheat only w/ ground millet) Anyway - a villager fixed a rice and pumpkin dish that I loved. Great Thanksgiving idea.

If you are on the boat take sunscreen - since there is no escaping the sun. Yes - I hear there are all sorts of things in the river but at some point I ceased caring and doused my straw hat in the river for relief. We took a bush taxi back to Niamey and although we secured the cabin, the truck had no windshield. Nothing a pair of sunglasses wouldn't take care of. There are few vehicles on the road so it's not like we were eating anyone else's dust. While waiting for the taxi Katie gave me a "tattoo" using the liquid she squeezed out of a tree's fruit. It was very good. I gave her one, too and she was very gracious when she didn't laugh and wash it off immediately.

I spent my last day buying souvenirs. The PCV's know where to go and be sure you go with someone who speaks Zarma. Margie's language, Fufulde, is not spoken widely in Niamey so the 2 of us trying to get anything done alone in Niamey was pretty much a joke. Like when we tried to cash in travelers checks at the bank and they insisted on having the receipts (make a note of this - you will need them if you plan to exchange for cash). I feel like I got some outstanding deals. Bring an empty bag to bring back goodies. Or better yet, bring a bag full of goodies for your PCV, and return with it full of goodies for you.

Another tip - don't eat in the airport! It's the only place that upset my stomach. In Niamey there were numerous "Western" places to eat. I recommend the Nims (little egg roles). Oh well - Margie and Katie are doing great. They seem extremely healthy. Of course mentally there are good days and bad days. It's a difficult place to exist and I give them a tremendous amount of credit for the work that they and all the volunteers do.

Cheers!